Seed Starting Date Calculator

Your last frost date in; a dated chart out — when to sow each crop indoors, when to set it out, when to direct-sow, and when to plant the fall crop. Print it for the potting bench or put it in your calendar.

Your frost dates

The zone fills in typical dates; your extension office's or NOAA's average for your town is better — type it over.

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When should I start seeds indoors?

Count back from your average last spring frost. Every crop has a customary lead time — tomatoes six weeks before the frost date, peppers eight, onions ten, squash only three — and a customary planting-out date relative to the same frost date: tender things a week or two after it, hardy things a few weeks before. The calculator applies those offsets to your date, which is the whole trick; the offsets themselves are the same ones printed on seed packets and extension charts, collected in one place.

Why the frost date, and which one

The "last frost date" is an average — the date by which, in half of past years, the last 32 °F night had already happened. Half the time it hasn't. So treat the transplant dates here as earliest sensible, watch the ten-day forecast, and keep row cover handy for the week after. Your USDA zone gives a typical date (the calculator fills it in); the real number for your town from your extension office or NOAA's climate normals is better, and a neighbor who's gardened there twenty years is better still.

Seed starting dates by zone — a few crops

CropZone 5
last frost ≈ Apr 30
Zone 6
last frost ≈ Apr 17
Zone 7
last frost ≈ Apr 3
TomatoSow Mar 19 · out May 7Sow Mar 6 · out Apr 24Sow Feb 20 · out Apr 10
PepperSow Mar 5 · out May 14Sow Feb 20 · out May 1Sow Feb 6 · out Apr 17
BroccoliSow Mar 19 · out Apr 16Sow Mar 6 · out Apr 3Sow Feb 20 · out Mar 20
LettuceSow Apr 2 · out Apr 16Sow Mar 20 · out Apr 3Sow Mar 6 · out Mar 20
PeaDirect Mar 19Direct Mar 6Direct Feb 20
Bean, bush or poleDirect May 7Direct Apr 24Direct Apr 10
CucumberSow Apr 9 · out May 14Sow Mar 27 · out May 1Sow Mar 13 · out Apr 17

Engine output at each zone's typical last frost. "Sow" = indoors under lights; "out" = transplant; "Direct" = sow in the ground.

Starting too early is the common mistake

A tomato sown in January for an April planting-out spends two months leggy and root-bound on a windowsill and transplants worse than one sown in March. The lead times here are what the plant needs to be the right size on planting day — 6–8 in tall, a few true leaves, not yet flowering — under decent light. If your only light is a window, sow a week later than the chart, not earlier; if you have a shop light an inch above the seedlings, the chart is right.

Hardening off and planting out

Indoor seedlings have never met wind, full sun or a cold night. Starting 7–10 days before the transplant date, put them outside in shade for an hour and work up to a full day of sun and a night out. Plant in the evening or on a cloudy day, water in, and don't fertilize for a week. For the tender crops — tomatoes, peppers, squash, basil — the transplant date assumes soil has warmed too; a cold wet week after the frost date is a reason to wait, not a reason to hurry.

The fall garden: count back from the first frost

The half of the calendar most charts leave off. Fall crops are sown in late summer and need to mature before the first fall frost slows them down, so the offset runs the other way: weeks before first frost. For a first frost around Oct 20 that's roughly broccoli Jul 28, lettuce Aug 25, spinach Sep 1, radish Sep 15 and garlic Sep 22. Fall lettuce and spinach are often the best of the year — cool nights, no bolting — and garlic planted a month before frost is next July's harvest.

Direct sowing: the soil thermometer beats the date

Peas, spinach and radishes germinate in soil at 40 °F and go in a month or more before the frost date; beans, corn and squash rot in soil below about 60 °F and go in a week or two after it. The dates here are when those soil temperatures usually arrive; a $15 soil thermometer tells you when they actually have. Sow a second batch of the quick crops every two or three weeks for a continuous harvest — the dates are the start of the season, not the only day.

Sources: Johnny's Selected Seeds, Seed-Starting Date Calculator (offsets); University of Maryland Extension, Vegetable Planting Calendar; Iowa State Extension, Planting and Harvesting Times for Garden Vegetables; Clemson HGIC 1256, Planning a Garden. Frost dates by zone are the common almanac approximations; use your local average.